Deep Brown From Decades Inside A Barn
The colour came from decades inside a barn, not from a can. Built to your exact dimensions and shipped nationwide from Auburn, Georgia.
Our chocolate brown reclaimed hemlock box beams are the darkest we build, and the ones with the most texture you can feel. Decades of weather raised the grain on these boards — run a hand across a face and the growth rings stand up under your fingers.
Color: medium to dark brown, chocolate.
Texture: light to heavy saw marks, mostly deep weathered raised grain.
Finish options: wire brushed or sanded available, though both will knock down the raised grain that makes this style what it is.
For a room that wants weight and depth overhead rather than warmth and light, this is the pick.
Built from barn wood siding, 60 to 200 years old.
Every Beechcreek box beam:
- 2, 3, or 4-sided box construction, built to your outside dimensions
- 1-sided skins available for trim and accent work
- Corners mitered for a clean, seamless appearance
- Backside planed; all visible faces sanded
- Bora Care treatment applied to kill insects and fungus
- Fastener holes filled with a sawdust-and-glue blend from the same wood
- Built to your exact dimensions — or your interior dimensions when the beam wraps steel, an LVL, or ductwork
- Shipped nationwide, full length, tarped and strapped
Chocolate Brown Hemlock, Installed
Each beam is one-of-a-kind. Expect natural variation in grain, stress cracks, nail holes, bug holes, knots, and patina — that’s the wood’s history, not a defect.
Installing Chocolate Brown Reclaimed Hemlock Box Beams
Most customers bring in a finish carpenter, though plenty of experienced DIYers handle it themselves. We supply the wood and we’re glad to talk through your run — we don’t install.
Before you start. Let the beams acclimate in the room for two to three days, stored off the floor in a dry, well-ventilated space. Keep temperature and humidity steady before, during, and after the install; wood moves with the room it lives in.
- Set your cleat. Rip 2×4 stock to match the beam’s interior width and fasten it to the joists or wall framing, level and on layout. Brackets are available separately if you’d rather not build cleats.
- Hang the beam. Lift it over the cleat and fasten through the sides with trim screws or lag bolts, keeping fasteners in the shadow lines.
- Fill the holes. Use the sawdust-and-glue blend that ships with your order — it’s milled from your own beam, so it disappears.
- Square your landing. Cut one end square where the beam meets a wall or corner for a flush finish.
Tools worth having on hand: lag bolts and trim screws, 2×4 stock, a level, circular saw, speed square, wrenches, drill and bits, braces, and ladders or scaffolding.
Care. Dust with a dry or barely damp cloth. In a kitchen or a high-traffic room, a sealer makes long-term upkeep easier.
How to Measure
Four numbers get your beam built right.
- Length — the full span, end to end. We build to 50 feet; on hemlock, longer runs are built with seams.
- Height — the vertical face, measured top to bottom.
- Width — the horizontal face, measured across the front.
- Interior height and width — the open channel inside the hollow beam. These are the ones that matter when the beam wraps an existing joist, steel, an LVL, or ductwork.
Wrapping something? Give us the interior dimensions and we’ll do the conversion: outside width comes out at interior width plus 2 1/2 inches, outside height at interior height plus 1 1/2 inches. We confirm both sets of numbers back to you before anything gets cut.
Beam under 14 feet? Tell us what it’s for. Mantels and floating shelves usually need end caps, and it’s easier to build those in than to add them later.
Why Builders and Homeowners Choose Beechcreek
Builders come to us because straight, square material makes the install go faster. When the beam fits the opening, corners stay tight and long runs stay true. Everything is milled here in Auburn, Georgia, and we stand behind what leaves the yard.
Homeowners and designers come for the surface. The deep brown on this hemlock came from decades inside a barn, not from a can, and it reads from the floor in a way a mold or a router can’t fake. We’ll talk through sizing, texture, and finish so the beam lands right in your room.
And every order puts people coming out of recovery to work. That’s not a side story. It’s why the shop exists.
Tell us what you're building.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can chocolate brown hemlock box beams be stained?
They can, but most clients don’t — the medium-to-dark chocolate tone is the reason to choose this style. If you want a specific darker shade, ask us for samples before deciding.
Why does this style feel more textured than other box beams?
Decades of weathering raised the grain on these boards, so the growth rings literally stand up off the face. Wire brushing or sanding will knock that down — order it raw if the texture is the point.
How long can a chocolate brown hemlock beam be?
Hemlock boards run shorter than our oak and pine, so long runs usually include a seam — which we torch, sand, and wire brush until it disappears into the board. Our shop builds up to 50 feet.
Are box beams structural?
No — box beams are decorative. They’re hollow, built from the reclaimed faces of antique timber, and they hang on a cleat or bracket rather than carrying load. If the beam has to hold weight, that’s a solid beam, and your builder or engineer specifies the size.
Are chocolate brown hemlock box beams safe to use indoors?
Yes. This hemlock spent decades inside a barn — which is where the deep brown came from — so the moisture left and the movement happened generations ago. Every beam also gets a Bora Care treatment before it ships, which kills insects and fungus. We treat rather than kiln dry on purpose — kiln drying reclaimed wood tends to make it check and crack afterward.